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When assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.